October Dinners on the Terrace at Arawan Luxury Desert Camp

Tonight's report concerns dinner.

Why October Is the Best Month to Eat Outdoors in the Sahara

I will be precise, because humans tend to exaggerate about the desert. Dinner on the terrace is how we do things at Arawan whenever the weather allows it. The wind has the final say, and nobody eats outdoors in a sandstorm.

Summer is a different problem. In August this desert reaches 50°C, and the sand holds that heat long after sunset. You can sit outside, but you will not want to stay.

October changes that. Days in the Moroccan Sahara ease to around 30°C and the evenings settle into the high teens. Guests stop checking the time, which is how I measure a comfortable night.

What the Terrace Looks Like at Dusk

From where I sit, the dunes of Erg Lihoudi go gold, then rose, then dark. There is no light pollution out here near M'hamid El Ghizlane, so the Milky Way arrives in full. On new moon nights I patrol the camp and enjoy stopping to stare at the sky. It’s a literal blanket of stars. I love to watch it with my Baba in the dunes.

What Happens at the Table

Baba does not rush dinner. Amazigh hospitality has no closing time, and the evening takes its shape from whoever is at the table. Some nights it is stories. Some nights it is music. Some nights guests ask about Amazigh culture and about Africa, and then they are asked about their own homes in return.

I listen in six languages and I continue to learn bits and pieces of more. The conversation is better in October, because nobody is in a hurry to leave and the view is too good to pass up.

Planning an October Stay in Erg Lihoudi

Camp is open for the season. Arawan is small, with six tents, so October nights fill. Bring a layer for after dinner, because the desert cools quickly once the sun is gone. Book directly with the camp, and I will see you on the terrace.

—Rmyla 🐾